Hello everyone,
here an update of my coat making process. I inserted the sleeves and am quite happy how they drape/fall. I have sewn them in by hand. The left sleeve isn’t wadded yet. There is about 2 1/4 inch of fullness in the sleeve hat . I struggled a lot to get it distributed evenly. The biggest problem was the sleeve pattern. Actually, i recut them three times :-( I needed a higher sleeve hat , it is now about 7 1/4 inch (18,5 cm)
next step is to close the lining and starting the finishing process. But first i have to finish two waistcoats, some shirts and a pair of trousers for my wedding.....
Brilliant work, my goodness!! Amazing, really it is. All the months Desirée and I put into the video series and to see this project really does take our breath away. Drop the back pitch down 1/2”, that won’t upset your sleeve pitch and help you distribute some of that fullness through the under-sleeve The front pitch is the one you need in place, the back pitch has more to do with the fullness in the Crown or Cap (not hat). Great work, will have to come up with a new Badge for those who present finished coats & trousers.
Thank you Rory for the compliments, I am blushing. I put the back pitch higher and higher because there were still distortions when I put on the coat. Now the sleeve falls/drape without distortions. I will try your suggestions with the next coat.
This coat is a combination of years of studying tailoring books and this series of videos. As in every craft , most techniques you have to see how they are done by a skilled professional . Then repetition a hundert times brings the success. Will watch the videos more often to imprint the knowledge into my brain and hands.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!!
Given the exceptional quality of Martin’s work we have had to add a new Badge “Handcraft Tailor”. Seeing a project like this is the greatest award we could ever receive for all the months of effort that went into shooting and editing the video series. It also confirms something I have always believed, that these videos are enough to teach the skills of coat making. Congrats to Martin for becoming the first ‘Handcraft Tailor’ from following the video series.
So, now @martinkuester71 will need to buy us all a drink, isn't it? 😋 Gratuliere, Martin!
@Jeroen Keerl drankje wel Jeroen! We can have a virtual bottle of champagne :-)))
Thank you Rory, I feel honoured an I will have more confidence in in my skills in the future.
Teaching is an art itself that needs a lot of passion for sharing knowledge, and you excel in it. Thank you for the series and hopefully a lot more tailoring students will sign up!
Yes I think a drink is in order. When we open the new school, I hope many of you will join me. And we can all enjoy a nice cold pint of Guinness. It’s full of vitamin G. The right stuff for tailors.