I have a question on the back width from 1-6.
In drafting by proportionate it's made 1/3 scale plus 2 1/4. But if back has a 3/8 seam only on the sideseam, creating and excess 3/8". So if the back only has one seam in the side, wouldn't the width be 1/3 scale plus 1 7/8? Or is the extra 3/8" for shaping the back, or for an excess drape? I'm just a little confused because the width of back was usally made 1/3 scale plus 1 3/4 (for a 1/4" seam in the side), or 2" (for a 1/4 seam in both side and back).
I would use
1/3rd scale plus 2 1/4" for a 6" drop
1/3rd scale plus 2 1/2" for a 4" drop
1/3rd scale plus 2 3/4 for a 2" drop
1/3rd scale plus 3" for a 0" drop
1/3rd scale plus 3 1/4" for a plus 2"
Over the past year, I have pushed both the coat and waistcoat to its limits, developing the system of drafting for every conceivable size.
These lessons have been added to the live online class 'Pattern drafting for bespoke menswear'.
If you have taken this class already, you can apply for updated lessons by just emailing me directly.
Ok I understand now.
I couldn't possibly comment on why another system does it a different way. There are plenty of systems out there with a different take on how to draft patterns.
I am confident in this system and my method of applying it.
I am a little confused by your question.
The back width is 1/3rd scale plus 2 1/4", this includes a 3/8" seam allowance