Hello Rory and all.
What is the best way to determine the knee size for the trousers? How much larger than the knee itself it should be? I'm 55 years old and don't like slim fit clothes, my waist is 32', hip 42' and what I think it looks best for me is a 15' cuff.
Thanks,
Tony
You mentioned your cuff size. I've only ever made trousers for myself, but have tried a number of cuff sizes.
In my own case, I've found that an old Regency-period rule is good for determining minimum cuff size. They'd simply measure the knee (standing up) and use that. Obviously one can go with a higher circumference, but I've found that using anything below my knee size just looks odd. The leg 'triangulates', giving that haunch-of-ham look favoured by 'Hipsters' (oxymoron alert). I round up to the nearest whole measurement at the cuff (16" in my case) and (coincidentally) use the same 1.5" ratio that Rory uses at the knee.
Regency cutting skills left something to be desired, but I honestly think they were onto something with this rule, i.e. using the natural proportions of the body to determine styling. Would be interested to hear other's findings if they try this.
PS, (for me) those measurements I mentioned give a narrow leg look. Re the knee. If you take a knee measurement sitting down and run a finger all the way under the measure, to the point where you're holding it, that's the bare minimum (17" for me) I'd use for a knee circumference. And it would be skinnyish.
At least the above gives minimum measurements, though.
Hi Tony, A 15” cuff is narrow, I would make it more like 16 1/2”. Add an 1 1/2” to the hem width to find the knee width. Add 2” to the hem width if you are cutting slim fit or corpulent trousers (waist exceeds the seat)