Inlay

Hi there the 3/8" seam allowance has been already included in the draft (in forepart and sidepart). Check points 17 and 17A in the draft. Alterations will be done at the side seam if necessary so no inlay needed here.

Patterns are drafted with limited seam allowance. Seam allowance runs across the shoulder, round the armhole and down the side seam on the back. Round the armhole down both the side seam and side body seam on the side body. And Across the shoulder, round the armhole and down the side body seam on the forepart. Seam allowance for the front edge is taken from the inlay here after the fitting when shaping the front edge. About 2 1/2” are allowed at the hems. An inch or so it added across the shoulders (forepart & back) to adjust for balance. An inch or so it allowed at the forepart armhole to allow for crookening, or widening the shoulders. Inlay is allowed at the armhole on the back to adjust shoulder width. Inlay is added to the centre back seam so the back width can be let out. Inlay is allowed at the side body side seam so the sides can be let out. A general rule is if there is no seam allowance inlay is added.