I am trying to get started drafting the waistcoat pattern. but i am completely flummoxed about where/how to calculate and/or measure the Vest Style Point, The Vest Waist Suppression, and the "stand". I have no idea what any of these three numbers are actually supposed to represent, so it's totally a mystery where to get them. I have the "chart" of pre-programmed numbers to use for certain given heights, but I am way taller than any of the heights on the chart, so i need to know the formula to compute these things, or how to measure them directly (which would be best, imho). I have a Rory post in which he says "VBL is based on height" but no formula is given. Same thing for VSP. He also says VWS is based on the waist, but again there's no formula for computing it from the waist measurement. nor is there any hint of how to measure it directly (which, again, would be nice). The number for the "stand" is simply provided in the video, but there's nothing in the video, or on the chart, or in rory's email, to explain what this number is, how to measure it directly, or how to compute it from some other measurement.
It's amazing to me that people are able to proceed with so little information. I must be very dense. I am completely stuck here.
Hi John,
Don't be afraid to try something new.
I myself wanted to be a carpenter. That's sorta the point of the joke.
I missed out on a course at Letterfrack by 5 points in my Leaving Cert.
I can't imagine now what my life would have looked like if things had gone differently.
I still try and turn my hand to it now and again, but I am sure you're in a whole other league.
Dear John,
Perhaps you should think about carpentry, because you hit the nail on the head there.
All joking aside.
The waistcoat making video series is just that, it's not a waistcoat pattern drafting video series.
When one takes my live online course 'Pattern drafting for bespoke menswear', they come to a clearer understanding of pattern drafting.
I think you may have missed it but there is a pattern to all of the measurements.
For example the VSP 'vest style point' increases by 1/4" for every 2" as the height increases.
So let's say John you are 6ft 6" well that's 4" tall than 6ft 2" which has a style point of 4 1/2" so your style point would be a 1/2" longer making it 5".
Let's now look at the VWS, so the max is 1 1/4" on a 30" waist down to 5/8" on a 40".
This only refers to the centre back waist suppression and not side waist suppression.
The pattern drafting course offers an explanation for every sizing between a 10" drop and a plus 2". The waistcoat MAKING series doesn't.
I only ever came across one figure who had a remarkable flat back, 5/8" is sufficient for any figure over a 40" waist.
As for the stand, after much research and development I have experienced a U-turn. I now fix the stand at 1" and allow the front strap measure to help dictate the front balance measure. I do however raise the stand when dealing with an unusually high shoulder. Raising the stand 1/8" for every inch can disrupt the posture on stooping figures.
This has been updated in the drafting system.
I was never offered a video series on how it's done. Most of the time I had to figure that out for myself. I certainly never had access to a book that could answer questions that stump most Savile Row cutters.
I persevered and experimented developing drafts for leg figurations I saw in the streets. I don't know of another book that offers drafts in different styles for six leg figuration types. Or a system that can draft a waistcoat or coat in every inch and any height.
I am doing the best I can for all you on here. We are well through the video series for the pattern drafting course. The book will be both affordable and available to you all very soon.
It's still not the book I want. It doesn't answer every question. But I will continue to work with Jeremy to further develop it and give you all a better chance at succeeding as Master Tailors.