Hi Rory and people. For 3 years I have been teaching myself to make historical suits 1890 to 1930 using a combination of old books and Japanese YouTube tailoring videos. This program [hand crafted coat] is AMAZING, but I have some questions about canvasing.
You seen to use a very “flat” canvas with little 3D shape to it.
I notice you don't cut a dart into the scye of the chest canvas, is there a reason for this? Most of the fullness of the chest seems to be created by this dart.
Following instructions in a victorian book, on heavier fabrics [16oz plus], I am flat lining every panel with linen canvas including the sleeves.
I put a huge amount of effort into creating a 3D canvas and lapel [see pictures] - am I wasting my time? Are your “flat” canvas a personal unstructured style decision? It this the Savile Row norm?
Thank you in advance for your help.
EDIT - as I am working with heavier cloths, should I stretch the cloth over the canvas as the old books tell you to? OR does modern heavy cloth not require this?
"Following instructions in a victorian book, on heavier fabrics [16oz plus], I am flat lining every panel with linen canvas including the sleeves."
That sounds really interesting. I would love to see some pictures of this. Where did you find out about this technique? Do you sew the canvas together with the cloth at the usual seams? Or do you join the canvas panels separately to the outer cloth?
What is the book you are using? I also make historical garments, mostly uniforms, but I am making the transition to early 20th century as well as modern styles with a historic flare
I am glad you are enjoying the videos.
I have tried this method. I know some Savile Row who do use this dart. I feel like I don't need as much chest shape to great the overall silhouette.