I thought I read all postings in the forum - but I missed the one about the threads not being in the packs anymore. So I had to go looking for the correct threads and colours for my jacket.
My request for help at Dugdales was not successful at all - and I didn't want to wait for customs etc. again.
With the help of @David C and the information of others in this thread , I was able to find the corresponding threads, which can then be ordered from (online)shops within the EU - possibly saving money, but definitely saving on waiting time. For the NAVY packs Dugdales offers the following threads:
HTA-EXTRAS Silk Hand Sewing Thread > Dark Navy 700m Reel
> This seems to be Gütermann S1003 Silk thread - Colorcode 665. 
Unfortunately, S1003 is not listed on the Gütermann website anymore, it is / was an industrial product apparently. There seem to be some offers left, for 3000m at € 94. You have 2 options, depending on what you want to use it for:
Either look for Gütermann R753, which is listed as 40s - 3 € / 30 meters.
Or look for Gütermann S303, which is listed as 100s - 3 € / 100 meters. The Tre Cherci cotton is hard to get by here in Germany. But since we now know the color code for Gütermann threads, we can either get the "Allesnäher" "No. 100" (Polyester - which I am using all the time for almost anything...) or, if you want to stick with cotton:
 Gütermann Baumwolle (Cotton) C Ne50 - Color code 6210 is a Ne50s thread, but should work out. For the grey packs the same applies as above: Gütermann S303 100s in color 701 and / or
Gütermann R753 40s in color 701 Gütermann C Ne50 in 5705 seems to do the trick. Tools: 
Getting the rulers Rory uses, can also be done by ordering at Fairgate themselves:
Here you'll find the curves: https://fairgate.com/Curves_c_1.html And here is the L-Square: https://fairgate.com/24x14L-Square_p_1077.html They have some sets too, but there was too much stuff in there, I didn't want or need for my likings - or things were missing.
One, two hints, if you should order there: 1) When you order, leave the "shipping cost will be calculated later" checked and proceed.
2) You'll see, after you paid for the rulers, that your order will go to "on hold" - with no further communication, unfortunately. This only means, they are producing your curves and rulers - and as soon as they are produced, they'll pack things up and then contact you with the shipping cost.
They weren't very "outgoing" where their processes were concerned.
Shipping to Germany set me back another $ 65 - Taxes are not clear yet...
Thank goodness, these rulers will last me a life time! 😓 @martinkuester71 sent the following link, to a Fairgate "Designer Set", where the 24" French Curve is missing:
 https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/designer-set/ As @Devin Caster pointed out in his post , the HAND No 6402 tool can be bought through Amazon.
(Thanks @Kunsthandwerk for reminding me!)
 Should you have any comments, improvements, experiences or other "workarounds" for those living on the continent: Throw'em at me ... or in this thread!