I thought I read all postings in the forum - but I missed the one about the threads not being in the packs anymore. So I had to go looking for the correct threads and colours for my jacket. My request for help at Dugdales was not successful at all - and I didn't want to wait for customs etc. again. With the help of @David C and the information of others in this thread, I was able to find the corresponding threads, which can then be ordered from (online)shops within the EU - possibly saving money, but definitely saving on waiting time.
For the NAVY packs Dugdales offers the following threads: HTA-EXTRAS Silk Hand Sewing Thread > Dark Navy 700m Reel > This seems to be Gütermann S1003 Silk thread - Colorcode 665. Unfortunately, S1003 is not listed on the Gütermann website anymore, it is / was an industrial product apparently. There seem to be some offers left, for 3000m at € 94. You have 2 options, depending on what you want to use it for: Either look for Gütermann R753, which is listed as 40s - 3 € / 30 meters. Or look for Gütermann S303, which is listed as 100s - 3 € / 100 meters.
The Tre Cherci cotton is hard to get by here in Germany. But since we now know the color code for Gütermann threads, we can either get the "Allesnäher" "No. 100" (Polyester - which I am using all the time for almost anything...) or, if you want to stick with cotton: Gütermann Baumwolle (Cotton) C Ne50 - Color code 6210 is a Ne50s thread, but should work out.
For the grey packs the same applies as above:
Gütermann S303 100s in color 701 and / or Gütermann R753 40s in color 701
Gütermann C Ne50 in 5705 seems to do the trick.
Tools: Getting the rulers Rory uses, can also be done by ordering at Fairgate themselves: Here you'll find the curves: https://fairgate.com/Curves_c_1.html
And here is the L-Square: https://fairgate.com/24x14L-Square_p_1077.html
They have some sets too, but there was too much stuff in there, I didn't want or need for my likings - or things were missing. One, two hints, if you should order there:
1) When you order, leave the "shipping cost will be calculated later" checked and proceed. 2) You'll see, after you paid for the rulers, that your order will go to "on hold" - with no further communication, unfortunately. This only means, they are producing your curves and rulers - and as soon as they are produced, they'll pack things up and then contact you with the shipping cost. They weren't very "outgoing" where their processes were concerned. Shipping to Germany set me back another $ 65 - Taxes are not clear yet... Thank goodness, these rulers will last me a life time! 😓
@martinkuester71 sent the following link, to a Fairgate "Designer Set", where the 24" French Curve is missing: https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/designer-set/
As @Devin Caster pointed out in his post, the HAND No 6402 tool can be bought through Amazon. (Thanks @Kunsthandwerk for reminding me!)
Should you have any comments, improvements, experiences or other "workarounds" for those living on the continent: Throw'em at me ... or in this thread!
Gosh, that's a lot of money. Be careful with your L square, especially if you have to travel with it, as the metal is rather soft and it warps easily. I've seen people carry theirs in either a hard portfolio case or in a soft carrier sandwiched between large pieces of hard cardboard.
Have you bought the "hand tool," the clear curve used for the armscye?
Yes, I know about the metal - I saw some comments on Amazon about that. I have been looking for possibilities to have these made here in Germany, possibly in steel - which would weigh more, but also be (nearly) indestructible. Yes, I got the HAND tool on amazon, but forgot to list it! Thanks for reminding me, I will add it in the original post 🙂
Müller&Sohn/ Rundschau, the German pattern making system is also offering a ruler set on their website. L-square, Frensh curve, trousers curve and a small curve made of metal . I have used them for about ten years now
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/designer-set/
Thanks Martin, I saw them, but the 24" curve is missing. It actually is the exact same kit as Fairgate offers it on their site. I did some calculations* somewhere and -when and found it to be cheaper to order all of it in the US and have it shipped as one package, instead of getting a part here in Germany and the rest still from the US. It seems to be the size of the rulers, which makes shipping so expensive - shipping cost for just the 24" curve was as high as shipping for the full package.
* Since I tend to do these calculations preferably after a day of parenting a 1 year old, combined with work and household stuff, I would not give any guarantee whatsoever, that these calculations might actually be correct!
@Jeroen Keerl at least you have what you want :-)
i thought Müller&Sohn also offers the 24” French curve, .......
groeten uit Rotterdam
@martinkuester71 Mogge Martin,
I didn't find it at the time I needed / wanted it. They don't have it now either, the curve I find there is in metric, 32cm. Groeten terug van een oud-Schiedammer! 😉
There is also this set (in metric!) including all the curves shipping from The Netherlands if that is more convenient for anybody. https://www.textielstad.nl/fournituren/meten/fashion-designer-kit.html
I use these because they were easier to acquire back when I bought them. I have a few positions for certain runs marked on there with permanent marker. I did purchase an imperial L-square since I prefer to work with the imperial system.
Dankjewel, Thies. I actually thought about this. If I'd have gathered some experience before, then I would have definitely done the same. However, being a complete newbie - as far as this "manual" method is concerned, I didn't want to take any risks. This is probably one of the most expensive (Both in time and money) projects I have ever started - and for me, there's a lot at stake.
JK
@Jeroen Keerl I totally understand! Veel succes met alles!