I would love to see the hybrid coat making. For perspective though for those still on the road, and before the first turn... I did the whole hand work thing in fly tying through which I made money as a kid, and later an apprenticeship in woodworking where I spent an eternity on my knees sharpening my first set of tools, literally a year or more. That was 40 years ago. I also have hand skills in many other activities, too numerous to mentions. As FK says, hand work is production. But the romance of hand work can just be a clever way to avoid learning other techniques. One is not a more accomplished craftsperson by being less accomplished. If you think threading a needle is difficult, try all the things you have to learn to select, buy, get set up, often fix, the many kinds of sewing machines that can be useful, just to get to the same point of departure you reached when you threaded that Sharp. And then take an outing on an old style clutch motor machine and see how that feels. People today are so lucky to have variable speed servo motors. If one does sell one's work one may want to speak honestly to customers. My dad had tailored suits from Belfast, and I had shorts suits from the same tailor. My dad's suits lasted for a very long time because there was central heating, and the fabric was very heavy compared to what we have today. Today the fabric seems to let go, before the sewing, so the fact there are stronger ways to make a seam seams less important today that maybe it was at one time. Does the crotch really need to be sewn by hand. I don't know, but I would like to know what the truth is.

A related question is what is the role of steam? I thought that for many suit fabrics dry heat was preferred to steam. In most natural fibers the role of steam is to carry heat to the place you want to have reach a particular heat, the water itself is not an advantage. When heated the natural material, be it wood or wool, relaxes, and then sets when it cools. But residual water is inimical to setting. If you come out of a lake, your suit does not generally look that great. Over here in the US and Canada, most domestic irons can't be made terribly hot, they are plastic, and run off steam, and it all works up to a point. So it is what it is. But ideally, if there is enough heat, and the material is not so thick that one can't penetrate it without burning the surface, steam is undesirable. Though steam can work well on synthetics, because they melt with great heat, dry readily, and can be configured to work with the heat level of steam. Seems also to be good with cotton. That is a question, most of what I know about this comes from bending wood. ;) Also 50 years of personal ironing. But the principles are the same from my modest experience with the clothes iron. At first I thought I would want a lot of steam so I bought an iron that ran off a boiler.

What is the correct temperature for pressing materials in jackets and suits. I have several heavy irons, but in one case there is no temperature adjustment, and in the other it has just colours of the rainbow on the dial, nothing to indicate how hot to get the ironing surface to press suit fabrics. Happily there are many products that can be used to adjust temperature and measure it. I just need to know what temperature to shoot for.

I bought enough betweens from JJs to fill several pill bottles. The shipping was a killer, so I had to wait till a relative could carry them across the ocean. I used between off ebay and amazon, but they were a little miserable compared to the JJ models and their amazing eyes. Finding basting thread was also a hassle. I would certainly look at what Dugdales has as it can be really a hassle to get all the bits and pieces. Shipping at least doubled the cost, and at the end of the day I did not know if I had the right stuff, other than the needles.

Somewhat related, is your pattern drafting book available for sale, or is it for course work only. I would buy a copy, but searching high and low I did not find it.

I would like to see such a video.