Forum Comments

Waistcoat Fitting Help
In The Waistcoat
Jeroen Keerl
Golden Thimble
Aug 26, 2022
Hiya, here are a few things I spotted - and some possible solutions to the things you mention: The front edges are very close to your neck the back neck is also very high up and seems to stand off quite a bit from your neck too This will become even more of an issue, when you wear a shirt underneath, the edges will ride up on your collar Have you dropped the neck and shoulder points 3/8", as shown in the video? Add 1/2" to the front, remove 1/2" from the upper back. This should resolve the issues in your neck and make the front edges wider. If that does not resolve the issue completely, squaring the shoulders might be needed too. Yours seem to be quite "square" - so the outside of your shoulders is pushing the coat upwards. @Rory Duffy has posted an picture out of his book regarding this - OTOH you might find it somewhere in my coat postings. Your right shoulder is higher than your left. Add 1/2" at the shoulder points, that would get rid of the fold on your right shoulder. Regarding the back: Draw a new curve on the back sideseams, starting at the balance mark. Start with taking in ~ 1/2" on both sides around the natural waist You don't want it to be too snug in the end! Lengthening: Work from top to bottom: If shoulders, neck and everything else is fine, then you can let out the hem. If you change the shoulder seams, you change the balance of the waistcoat. Lining is a pretty delicate fabric, if you are not really, really sure of what you're doing, you might end up with a back lining that needs to be re-cut completely, as the stitches from the machine will keep showing.
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Great tailoring blog
In General Discussions
Jeroen Keerl
Golden Thimble
Jul 27, 2022
This should be the one @martinkuester71 is referring to.
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Drafting the waistcoat pattern with corrections for hollow back
In The Waistcoat
Jeroen Keerl
Golden Thimble
Jun 28, 2022
Thanks, of course! That'll smoothen things a bit there.
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Sources in the US
In Haberdashery and Cloth
Jeroen Keerl
Golden Thimble
May 27, 2022
Thanks, I'll put them in the list later on!
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Unfamiliar with unit of measurement!
In General Discussions
Jeroen Keerl
Golden Thimble
May 16, 2022
Hello Huy, I've been pondering about your message for a while, and I'll give you my opinion on it - although I am far from a professional tailor or expert on this matter. 1) Rory is an Irish man - so he speaks Irish / English with an Irish accent. I can understand, you have difficulties understanding what he's saying - I too had to listen very closely here and there, despite one of my best friend being Irish and having spent a lot of time with Irish people here in Hamburg. I guess it's not only the language as such, it's also the vocabulary: Tailoring terminology isn't your everyday English (Or Irish - in that case he'd probably be using the F*-word a lot more 😉) So, the best way would be to ask here in the forum - we're here to help each other. So if you didn't catch something he said: Just ask us. Tell us, what you're doing and how far you understood him - and one of us here will help you out. 2) Of course, you could do that. I tried to do so too - and stopped. It's not difficult, multiplying by 2,54 from Inch to centimeter. But then you get these figures, with 4 digits behind the comma... (I am 172,5cm, which is 67,9134". For my length, there is no real harm in using 68" for my calculations. But then there's my chest, at 87cm, which is 34,25". Do I go for 34"? Or stick with 34 1/4"? Scale = 1/2 Chest ... so would my scale be 17 1/8"? Or would 17" be okay? In the end, you'll have to start rounding those figures and that's where things might go wrong: If you don't know (yet) what every measurement exactly means or does, you might end up with a pattern that will demand a lot of adjustment. So, my advice: Stick to inches for now - until you've done a bunch of garments and know exactly, what measurement does what - so you'll know, when you'll have to round up or down. And from my own experience: You get used to inches rather quickly! Looking forward to seeing first results! Cheers, Jeroen
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Brace top trousers
In The Trousers
Jeroen Keerl
Golden Thimble
May 14, 2022
@martinkuester71 Brilliant stuff😊
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Jeroen Keerl

Writer
Golden Thimble
+4
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