Jeroen, The Gutterman is marked 100% Silk S 1003 on the top. The bottom has several numbers: 1911807 (no description), 30 (No/Tkt) , 700m (length) and 701 (the color). The spool looks very similar to this: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/search/product/hand-button-long-staple-spun-silk-100-silk-dug13600/colour/mid_grey/ . The Coat's Tre Cerchi is marked 040 07041 on the top, and on the bottom 21475106 (no description) 500m (length) and TRDT. Dugdale's said they were supplying color 05012 (Mid Grey) to match grey cloth, but the color number they sent is different (07041). The colors are vastly different from each other.. The Gutermann is much lighter grey than the Tre Cerchi, and is also much thicker. Neither is a great match for the cloth they sent. I got the coat and trouser packs at different times. The two cloths have little in common and the trouser cloth is nothing that I would want to wear - looks like sharkskin. If I can help further please let me know. Regards, David

Yes - buttonhole thread. I think I saw him roll his own - waxed and 4-stranded - from what I assumed was the standard silk we are to use. What happens is that I recall things that were said on the YouTube (YT) coat series shot in NYC and get it mixed up with the current detailed instructions. For example, I was pretty sure he talked about silk for padding on YT, mentioning it's qualities, etc. - and then I think I recall he said cotton here. I'll have run thru the videos again to find it (cotton reference). Eventually all this will find its way into some written documentation - or an index. But for now I just wanted to clarify if I had missed a general instruction on thread usage somewhere and clear it up before I use the wrong stuff.

OK - out goes the muslin! Yes, I was making one too - even though I knew it wouldn't drape right, etc. I was using it to check that the draft I made didn't have any gross errors before I cut the real goods. Basically a dry run of how good (or bad) I am at following video instructions. I have found a few minor items, but no show-stoppers. I did have a concern whether the inlays would cover my stoop adjustment, but after comparing an adjusted vest pattern I made previously to the current draft I think I'll be alright. I swore I would never make another muslin - all that work and nothing to show for it - yet I did it again. I just have to get used to the fact that trying to perfect a pattern so it will fit without the "fitting" stage is a fool's errand. This runs counter to my professional training, but measuring cloth to the 1/1000th of an inch just isn't going to make a better fitting garment. Learning how to fit it will. I hope I make it. Thanks again Rory.

Thank you all for your insights. KHW-I am working alone, yet the effort to create a "body double" seems daunting. Your post was a great summary of information that I had seen in bits and pieces during my internet wanderings, most of which came from RTW, fashions sites. That said, JB's suggestion does look interesting. I think for the time being I will push ahead and see how my first-off turns out and then re-assess. Thanks again. David

Rory - I see you are brushing off your chalk so it must be clay not wax. Is there a reason not to use the wax? Do you have a preferred brand? Is the brush just boar's bristle lint brush or something special? I realize these may be simple matters, but In the age of online shopping recommendations are quite helpful. Thanks.