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The Trousers

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Brace-Top Half-band Draft

I'm trying to understand the brace-top half-band draft shown in Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear - the Imperial System. It is mostly straight forward but comparing the video to the diagram (page 33) is somewhat confusing as to the dart placement or perhaps I am misunderstanding. The diagram shows the dart suppression is taken out slightly below line 23-25, however the video demonstrates curving a line from 28-25 and taking out the suppression along that line.


Can anyone shed some light? Perhaps I have misunderstood the relationship between the video and the diagram?

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Rory Duffy
Rory Duffy
Jun 08, 2024

I believe I mention in the video that the draft in the book is different from the explanation.

Both are correct and both are different to one another.

The explanation in the book is how I used to make up the brace top back and the explanation in the video series is how I do it now.

All that changes is the position of the waist line and how that affects the darts.

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