Help for a corpulent bracetop trouser
I followed TRS 03 and 04 for this one, closed leg with the plus 1" waist to seat variation and the trs32 brace top conversion.
Measurements are:
Waist 49 1/2"
Seat: 49"
Inside leg: 33 1/4"
Rise 10 1/4"
Knee 21"
Hem 19"
Scale 24 1/2"
The seat angle was for a flat seat. No darts on the topside
I've done a toil in calico.
After a few goes at fitting I seem to have an excess of ~2 1/2" on the side-seam above the knee that has to be taken out 1" front the topside, 1 1/2" on the underside. Consequently i think the back darts i think end up Is that to be expected or would or does it suggest I've chosen the wrong figuration?
Any advice before I start cutting my wool would be greatly appreciated.
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Thank you all for your suggestions.
I have lengthened the fork and adjusted the run of the side-seam with a re-draft
I have adjusted the rise at the centre front by 1" to nothing at the sides and re-did the undersides with one dart.
I like the wider leg which is much more comfortable however I appear to have some excess at the underside near the knees. The fronts are relatively clean and I am happy with them.
I wonder if this is something that will disappear with more pressing or if I need to refine the draft further?