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The Men's coat

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"A" Shaped gap at front.

Hello, this is a 4 button pattern from 1900, it has a rather pronounced “A” shaped gap at the front. When closed it has ½” too much overlap at the top button and 1/2" too little at the bottom. Is this a “cruckening” at the front neck point of the shoulder to fix? [if so how much?]


Or do the sides need letting out at the seat. Or both, is it is a little tight on the seat?



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John W
Jan 29, 2024

The front neck points are long and the back neck points are short from the hem. To balance this out "slide" the backs up on the side seams. The the back shoulder seam is trimmed where it overlaps the front. Perhaps the top front could be trimmed, if the armhole gets too deep. The top of the back sideseam is trimmed or folded. Part of the hem is used to fill out the bottom length. Some people need the fronts moved out on the shoulder seams to help line up the fronts. Which requires the front of scye to be "scooped out". The reason for this is the chest needs to be narrower, which sometimes means the back needs to be wider. Having inlays in these places is a requirement for this method of correction.

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