Draft from Measurements
Hi all
I have just competed what I think is a draft taken from my metric measurements. I have:
Chest 97cm
Scale 48.5cm
Waist 83cm
Seat 98cm
Height 185cm
with Head Unit of 23cm
I have a sway back with a 2 3/8" or 6cm incline on the Perkins tool
Dropped Left 1cm
When I did my first HTA Coat with Rory's pattern draft I took out 3cm from the back balance at first fitting to remove horizontal creases (see other postings!!) and narrowed the half back by about 1.2cm (1/2"). I didn't lengthen the front balance at all.
So in this new draft I have tried as well as I can to follow the exact measurements I have taken on my own body and incorporate them into the draft. I will add some photos of that draft. I have some questions though:
1. The scye line is often referred to the chest line in discussions. I want to check that because if I put a ruler under my arm it is about 6cm higher than the broadest point across my chest through my nipples. Is this just habit for everyone and the scye line is just called the chest line when the chest line is a bit below that??
On my draft I have used an actual measurement from the nape to the scye line for pts 0-1 then added 1.5cm for a bit of movement and taken off 1.0mm for the under arm seam allowance. This interestingly came out 3cm less than the first Rory Coat draft which would account for that 3cm back balance taken out. Is this right???
Then on the front pt 20-22 I used a body measurement from my neck point to my scye line and used that. Interestingly, this measurement also collated to Rory's draft of 0-1 plus half the stand but plus the 3cm I reduced the back balance by. Once again is this right?? Does it look right on the drawings?
Finally, when I do the Finished check measurements. Across the Chest is right at 1/2 Chest plus 3" allowing for Seam Allowances Across the Waist is right at 1/2 Waist plus 2" allowing for Seam Allowances But the Seat is 1cm too big when I do 1/2 Seat plus 1 1/2". Should I just not worry about that or maybe take a bit more out of the back to side body suppression and, rather come to a point at Pt8, open Pt 8 up 1/2" to pull the seat?? Thanks Ken
Scye line is the chest line.
The front scye measurement is used to find the front balance not the back.
3/8 or 1cm over the seat is nothing to worry about. If it was a considerable amount like an inch or more you could take it out at the side body seam.