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Handcraft Tailor

Continuing sleeve troubles

Wow, I know Rory said setting sleeves can take hours – but I wasn't expecting to spend literally about 4 hours (so far...)


I'm not quite sure what I'm going for. At the moment I've got it to here which I think is not bad.


What I'm confused about is when to use the following four options:

  1. Pass edge of sleeve beyond edge of armhole, but keep armhole run the same

  2. Opposite of 1 i.e. pass edge of sleeve inside edge of armhole

  3. Pass edge of sleeve beyond edge of armhole and also move armhole run

  4. Opposite of 3


Basically I've used trial and error so far. The main issue seemed to be that the armhole run didn't go straight for long enough before curving into the bottom of the armhole.


None of these issues are really visible while the coat is off. How a professional could do this boggles me completely!


Also hoping the dent near the top will go away once I've trimmed all the inlay at the top of the armhole.


Any help v much appreciated!



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Rory Duffy
Rory Duffy
16 may 2021

I’ve seen worse on Savile Row. Sew those in!

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