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General Discussions
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Canvassing a one piece front (CT01)
I've been wanted to try making a one piece front coat for w while and I thought this check cloth would be a good time to try.
I've noticed that there is more distortion to the front edge compared to a 2 piece front. When canvassing should the checks follow a straight line down? If so, the front dart will be curved.
Any tips before attempting this would be very much appreciated. Please advise.
Also, what are the benefits to making with a one piece front? I can understand less distortion below the cross pockets but anything else?
Thank you.
Paul
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The Art of Procrastination
If thinking was an art,
I would be its master,
But always thinking,
never doing
is a recipe for disaster.
Gazing so intently
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Free Live Online Overcoat Making Series
We’re excited to launch a brand-new live online series — The Overcoat Making Series — available free to all members of our community.
This structured series is designed to complement our current subscription course, The Making of a Savile Row Coat, and follows in the footsteps of our popular How to Make a Ladies Jacket series. It offers an excellent opportunity to continue developing your tailoring skills while working on a fresh and functional garment style.
Each month, we’ll guide you step-by-step through the process of making an overcoat — perfect for those looking to expand their coat-making experience in a more focused and project-based format.
When: The last Friday of every month
Time: 8:00 PM GMT
Where: Live on Zoom
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Kwan
27 nov 2025
Hi @Ken Woodman, did you manage to upload a recording of the session that happened in the 7th Nov?
Thank you for recording these by the way, it's really appreciated. I don't always get time to join, because of childcare duties.
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Silver Needle
Handcraft Tailor
Golden Thimble
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As Rory explained in the first "Overcoat" session, pattern matching is a rather "new" phenomenon in bespoke garment making. He explained, that usually the main focus should be on horizontally matching the pattern. Trying to match patterns both horizontally AND vertically is just not possible, du to darts and cuts.
Making a two piece forepart is better to accomodate prominent features of a certain "clientèle"(portly / corpulent drafts). Single piece fore parts are easier to make. I don't see any real benefits, apart from that.