How To measure/calculate VSP, VWS and stand?
I am trying to get started drafting the waistcoat pattern. but i am completely flummoxed about where/how to calculate and/or measure the Vest Style Point, The Vest Waist Suppression, and the "stand". I have no idea what any of these three numbers are actually supposed to represent, so it's totally a mystery where to get them. I have the "chart" of pre-programmed numbers to use for certain given heights, but I am way taller than any of the heights on the chart, so i need to know the formula to compute these things, or how to measure them directly (which would be best, imho). I have a Rory post in which he says "VBL is based on height" but no formula is given. Same thing for VSP. He also says VWS is based on the waist, but again there's no formula for computing it from the waist measurement. nor is there any hint of how to measure it directly (which, again, would be nice). The number for the "stand" is simply provided in the video, but there's nothing in the video, or on the chart, or in rory's email, to explain what this number is, how to measure it directly, or how to compute it from some other measurement.
It's amazing to me that people are able to proceed with so little information. I must be very dense. I am completely stuck here.
I'm talking about point 12 on coat draft. I feel like people are talking about both stand and collar stand simultaneously in this thread, but i thought rory was reffering to (point 12) when saying he goes no more than 1".