Hi Rory
Is the main purpose of inlays to allow room to make adjustments after the fitting process? If so, once the adjustments have been made and recorded on the pattern (or a new pattern drafted with the amendments) is there any purpose to keeping inlays other than the back centre inlay (which I could see being useful for limited adjustment for weight gain etc). It is hard to see how these other inlays would be able to be used without totally remaking the coat. Would standard seam allowances be used therefore in subsequent garments from that pattern? I’d appreciate your thoughts on this Rory. Thanks.
Inlays are usually left on after fittings, for future adjustments. You are correct in assuming that use of these inlays would result in an almost remake of the garment. I consider the forepart construction to be about 60% of the entire coat construction. The usual request is let out all possible when a garment becomes too small. But it all can’t be let out proportionally. You can let out the back but not the front edge. You can widen the shoulder but not the front chest. There are limits to what you can do with the inlay you have.
Thanks Rory
So just to clarify, the inlays are usually retained when striking patterns for subsequent garments, even though they can’t easily be used. Obviously, once the pockets are cut, and the lapels padded, there is limited adjustment possible without destroying the balance of the coat. Is this more of a background feature to make it clear it’s a bespoke garment rather than any practical use post completion?
No. The inlays can be used at any stage, whether it’s a the pocket baste, like shown in the video series or a forward fitting (foreparts made with back, shoulders, collar & sleeves basted in) Or Finished garment. As the making process moves forward there is a limit as to how much bigger you can make the garment and where.
Thanks for clarifying. I can see that now.
It does lead me back to my initial question on follow up garments made from the same pattern. Do you use the original draft and do the fitting process from scratch every time for the same customer or update it based on the fitting adjustments, miss out the initial fitting, and in this case not bother with the inlays other than those which can be used later? I’m just trying to understand whether it’s standard practice always to include the inlays on subsequent iterations of a fitted pattern or modify in accordance with a more certain configuration on the body of that client.
The inlays added are done as standard. So let’s say you made a coat and used the inlays to prefect the fit. On the next garment you would include those alterations plus the same amount of inlays again.
Got it now. Thanks.
Hey rory why there is white line and blue line of the same pattern . I know the two fabric blocks are cut out at the same time for right and left side using the same pattern block but why there is difference and also i have noticed 3/8 seam allownce is used in yout pattern but not everywhere is 3/8 can you tell me how i can figure out seam allownce on patterns