Hi all again
This is really an extension to my other post (https://www.handcrafttailor.com/forum/the-art-of-fitting-coats/more-fitting-help), but I thought that as it was a specific issue it might be useful to have a place dedicated to it, in case there are 'usual suspects'. If you want to see more pictures of the general fit, please take a look there – and comment if you feel able to as there are some outstanding issues with the fit more generally!
The issue is collar gap. I think we all know about it but here's a picture of mine (sorry it's quite a difficult angle to get at)
I'm pretty sure this is a consequence of my erect posture / very square shoulders, because if I forcibly move them forward, the problem corrects itself, but I'm not sure how to address it.
I've tried moving the neck points in, moving the collar up, stretching the collar so it's more round, shortening the collar (i.e. moving the lapel 'up', but nothing seems to work. Confusingly, Cabrera suggests taking in the back neck, but I've just let that out because the coat was too tight over the back neck.
Appreciate this may be a more complicated issue than I suggest but any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Robbie
PS there's quite a lot of inlay in there so I suppose that could be the issue but it does feel like the coat is 'lifting up'.
Is it just sitting off on one side?
No, both sides and over the back
Oh wait, sorry. Just sticking out at the sides, at the back it's ok – but only just, if I raise my shoulders slightly it comes off.
I guess it's particularly bad on the right side (I forgot to unmirror the picture above, it's also of the right side)
Could it be to do with setting of shoulder pads? The reason I ask is that in my first coat, the shoulder seam ended up sitting right behind the top of the shoulder, and on that I can really feel the weight of the coat around the neck (probably a little too much). With this coat, the seam is slightly in front, and I can't feel the weight at all around the neck. But I guess that's maybe more likely to be about the fact that I've squared the shoulders.
(both times I've lined up the notch on the pad with the shoulder seam)
Collar canvas could be upside down
Oh dear! Like, at right angles, with the wrong bias? I don't really understand. How can I tell if this is the issue?
Will need more images to diagnose
Ok – I will get my flatmate to take some as he's now back. Are there any specific views that would be helpful?
Each angle round the neck
Thanks for being so patient, Rory! I know it must be tiresome!
Here are some pictures. Sadly the dark lining makes it quite difficult to see plus all the inlay makes it quite messy (more inlay than usual since I've shortened both front and back balance)
Gap on RHS:
Gap on LHS:
From the back:
Let me know if you need more, and thanks again!
Perhaps the sides too...
Update: is it possible this could be caused by tightness across the upper back? It feels like it could be tight there. If so, is the correct way to remedy this to let out the centre back seam or should I be lengthening the balance (which I believe would also widen this distance)? Thanks!
Or perhaps even adding curve to the shoulder seams?
It’s probably a combination of issues. It’s too wide at the neck hole and needs squaring in the back. Let me post some images from my book.
Like this is you have erect posture
Like this if you have high shoulders
The neck if definitively just too wide so try narrowing it by 1/2” on both sides.
If you know your neck circumference I can tell you what your half neck should be.
Thanks Rory! My neck is 15". I think I've squared all I can so perhaps I'll try the erect posture alteration. Surprised I'm not getting any extra length in the back, though.
EDIT: my friend tells me I have some of the squarest shoulders he knows so perhaps I should keep going down that route. People tell me I stand up straight but I don't personally feel I do...
I think it's also worth me rebasting the whole thing just to check all my alterations because I may have made a mistake!