Hi all again
This is really an extension to my other post (https://www.handcrafttailor.com/forum/the-art-of-fitting-coats/more-fitting-help), but I thought that as it was a specific issue it might be useful to have a place dedicated to it, in case there are 'usual suspects'. If you want to see more pictures of the general fit, please take a look there – and comment if you feel able to as there are some outstanding issues with the fit more generally!
The issue is collar gap. I think we all know about it but here's a picture of mine (sorry it's quite a difficult angle to get at)
I'm pretty sure this is a consequence of my erect posture / very square shoulders, because if I forcibly move them forward, the problem corrects itself, but I'm not sure how to address it.
I've tried moving the neck points in, moving the collar up, stretching the collar so it's more round, shortening the collar (i.e. moving the lapel 'up', but nothing seems to work. Confusingly, Cabrera suggests taking in the back neck, but I've just let that out because the coat was too tight over the back neck.
Appreciate this may be a more complicated issue than I suggest but any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
PS there's quite a lot of inlay in there so I suppose that could be the issue but it does feel like the coat is 'lifting up'.