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    1. Forum
    2. Savile Row coat making
    3. Checking my Draft
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    heather.cohen
    Dash  ·  
    Feb 4

    Checking my Draft

    Hi,


    Rory asked me to post some pictures of my draft so he could check it.


    I drafted to Chest 36 Waist 30 Scale 18 Height 72" 1 head unit 9".


    Thanks









    6 comments
    0
    Rory Duffy
    Feb 4

    Hi Heather, It’s as I expected. The pocket is too high. As I said already, I don’t do the thirds system. If you are unsure as to where to put the pocket, line it up with the bottom button. The dart suppression is too much, 3/4” is all you need. On the positive side, your runs look good, you seem to have followed the rest of the draft correctly. After you make the adjustments I have suggested, you will be in a much better position to make a nice coat. Please post and share more examples of your work as the project moves forward.

    heather.cohen
    Dash  ·  
    Feb 4

    Hi Rory,


    Thanks very much for your help! I will make those changes now so I can continue.

    0
    heather.cohen
    Dash  ·  
    Feb 5

    Am I right in thinking that I only need to go back to the step where you start the hip pocket and then carry on from there to change the placement and the darts?

    0
    Benjamin
    Dash  ·  
    Feb 4  ·  Edited: Feb 4

    I was also thinking that the breast and underarm dart look hugely over-suppressed, as Rory said. I think this is often a beginner's mistake, looking for a shapely cut with elegant waist suppression. Don't fall into this trap. If you over-suppress these two darts it will cause drags/folds in other areas of the garment.


    I generally check the pocket depth as being around 8-9cm below the waist line. Those pockets do look too high.

    heather.cohen
    Dash  ·  
    Feb 4

    Hi,


    Thank you! Yeah I was torn between putting it at the second button point or at the point which is half of the underarm to hem measurement as Rory describes. I realise now that it should stay at the second button point.


    With my darts I think I must have misheard how much they were meant to be suppressed by.

    heather.cohen
    Dash  ·  
    Feb 6

    I've moved my pocket down now and redone the darts and suppression. I realised I was reading the draft to mean 3/4" suppression on either side of the dart not in total. That's why they came out over-suppressed.

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