Hi Heather,
It’s as I expected.
The pocket is too high.
As I said already, I don’t do the thirds system.
If you are unsure as to where to put the pocket, line it up with the bottom button.
The dart suppression is too much, 3/4” is all you need.
On the positive side, your runs look good, you seem to have followed the rest of the draft correctly.
After you make the adjustments I have suggested, you will be in a much better position to make a nice coat.
Please post and share more examples of your work as the project moves forward.
Am I right in thinking that I only need to go back to the step where you start the hip pocket and then carry on from there to change the placement and the darts?
I was also thinking that the breast and underarm dart look hugely over-suppressed, as Rory said. I think this is often a beginner's mistake, looking for a shapely cut with elegant waist suppression. Don't fall into this trap. If you over-suppress these two darts it will cause drags/folds in other areas of the garment.
I generally check the pocket depth as being around 8-9cm below the waist line. Those pockets do look too high.
Thank you! Yeah I was torn between putting it at the second button point or at the point which is half of the underarm to hem measurement as Rory describes. I realise now that it should stay at the second button point.
With my darts I think I must have misheard how much they were meant to be suppressed by.
I've moved my pocket down now and redone the darts and suppression. I realised I was reading the draft to mean 3/4" suppression on either side of the dart not in total. That's why they came out over-suppressed.
Hi Heather, It’s as I expected. The pocket is too high. As I said already, I don’t do the thirds system. If you are unsure as to where to put the pocket, line it up with the bottom button. The dart suppression is too much, 3/4” is all you need. On the positive side, your runs look good, you seem to have followed the rest of the draft correctly. After you make the adjustments I have suggested, you will be in a much better position to make a nice coat. Please post and share more examples of your work as the project moves forward.
Hi Rory,
Thanks very much for your help! I will make those changes now so I can continue.
Am I right in thinking that I only need to go back to the step where you start the hip pocket and then carry on from there to change the placement and the darts?
I was also thinking that the breast and underarm dart look hugely over-suppressed, as Rory said. I think this is often a beginner's mistake, looking for a shapely cut with elegant waist suppression. Don't fall into this trap. If you over-suppress these two darts it will cause drags/folds in other areas of the garment.
I generally check the pocket depth as being around 8-9cm below the waist line. Those pockets do look too high.
Hi,
Thank you! Yeah I was torn between putting it at the second button point or at the point which is half of the underarm to hem measurement as Rory describes. I realise now that it should stay at the second button point.
With my darts I think I must have misheard how much they were meant to be suppressed by.
I've moved my pocket down now and redone the darts and suppression. I realised I was reading the draft to mean 3/4" suppression on either side of the dart not in total. That's why they came out over-suppressed.